How Can We Forget?

Monday 15 Aug 2011. Phnom Penh

The sky is grey and showery. It's the rainy season, apparently. We have arranged for the tuk tuk guy who sent me to the hotel to tour us around a few places. Penya arrives at Frangipani and we work out an itinerary:- Russian Market, Chisor Mountain Wat, Prasat Taprom Tonle Bati Wat and Cultural Heritage and both are in Dist. 2 some 55km away.

Do you like our ride in Phnom Penh?

We have a tour around Russian Market which is a little chaotic and ordinary. Why is it called Russian Market? I have no idea. I buy a Cambodia scarf to shield the heat and sun when I am at Angkor Wat.

The trip to Dist. 2 is treacherous and long mainly due to the stop start journey as a result of the rain and the vehicular traffic. The road up to the mountain is also not paved making the journey tough. It took us some 3 hours to get there. Wow!

We make the best of our warm beer - I did not finish mine

A typical Khmer country side house

Along the way thunder storms and rains prevail and we wisely make a pit stop at a road side "restaurant". We have Angkor and Penya has a coke. We are concerned and not use their ice cubes provided and so we have warm beer. Ha ha. Part of the fun of being in a new place for the first time.....

At Chisor Mountain

Jatna our unofficial "tour guide"

Probably the good thing about going up to the Wat is we have to climb 412 steps up, according to our "guide" Jatna. I stop counting after 100+ steps and instead, take short rests before resuming our climb. It shows how unfit I am and I somewhat regret having put on the pounds since January this year. Jatna's 14 years old and she earns a couple of bucks accompanying us whether we like it or not. I do not mind her presence. She's a little darling and speaks quite good English. She goes to a local high school and is in Grade 9.

The Wat was built in the 1500's and up on the mountain we can sort of see Phnom Penh, some river I cannot remember its name and Thailand, which I cannot identify.

In hindsight I would not have gone to these places because they are so far away on a tuk tuk ride and we can pretty much see more in Siem Reap.

Chaotic set up

We make our way back to PP and track to see more worthwhile sights:- The Killing Fields, The Genocide Museum and Tuol Sleng S21 Torture Center.

These places are well worth the tourism dollars as they tell vividly of a dark age (1975-1979) when the Cambodia people suffered greatly under the Pol Pot Regime of the Khmer Rouge. All the sufferings and gruesome things that KR inflicted on more than 3 million people are on display. So much pain, so much anguish, so much was lost in those years. No one, least of them us tourists will understand the depth of the horror and pain.......

Mata Kuching Plant in the Killing Fields

For dinner tonight we choose to go to Khmer Surin Restaurant. The restaurant setting is very Balinese/Malayish/Thaish; well-suited for the western tourist market.

We just love the environment. The food turns out to be just ok. We have:-
1. Amok
2. Pineapple pork
3. Spicy steam fish
4. Khmer chicken curry
5. Khmer salad
6. Mango sticky rice
7. Bou Loy (just like the Malaysian Bo2 Cha2)




All for a paltry $26.

Border Crossing and Cambodia 柬埔寨之旅

Monument at Mocbai Border

Sunday 14 Aug 2011. Phnom Penh

By 8.00am I am at the Mekong Express 275F Pham Ngu Lao, Dist. 1 office. I am inquisitive and talkative. I make friends with British travelers Neil and his wife Maryosh. They have just done the train trip from Hanoi to HCMC and it was a baby trip for them, according to Neil, as they have extensive train travel experiences including one on London - Russia - Beijing.

He suggests I check out Vietnam Impressive (Mr Nguyen Thi Hien at 84-4-39747343 and hien@vietnamimpressive.com). They paid $384 for a 4-soft sleeper train coach because they wanted privacy and comfort.

The journey on the coach will take 6 hours to track a distance of 240km with a rest stop after the Vietnam Border town of Mocbai at the Cambodian border town of Bavet. I know I do not need visa to get into Cambodia and this is verified by the tour guide. Phew!



There is a movie and Vietnamese karaoke being played on board. We are slow going due to the dual carriage way and bike traffic in the Vietnam side. Crossing the border is a breeze and we stop at the Flowery Restaurant for chow. I befriend 2 old Cambodian ladies having overhearing them converse in Teow Chew. It turns out one of them speaks Hakka and another speaks perfect Putong Hua. Hakka woman was in HCMC to seek medical treatment for her stomach ulcer and Putong Hua lady was there to have her drooping eye lids operated on. They trust the Vietnamese doctors and medical facilities more.

Border crossing

Looking at Bavet from Mocbai

River Crossing on a ferry

Rest Stop

At the rest stop we have just tracked 80km from HCMC

I get into Phnom Penh Mekong Express office and buy 2 bus tickets to Siem Reap. One tuk tuk driver is very persistent and he tails me and waits for me, sensing business opportunity. I use him to get to my hotel - the Frangipani Villa 60's.

The beautiful hotel is located at #20R St 252, Chaktomuk, Don Penh, Phnom Penh.

Two amigos

My friend Darren is already at the hotel waiting for me. He has earlier arrived from KL to join me for the rest of my journey. I am glad he's ok and he tells me he got into the hotel from the airport on a motorbike for US$2. He wants the experience.



We settle in and walk to nearby St 57 (BKK 1 - lots of restaurants and pubs) and have a look see. It begins to rain and we look for cover. We get into this spa called Nata Spa at 29 St 302. and the environment looks great. I order a traditional Khmer massage and Darren an aromatherapy massage.

The bill comes to US$60 and the disappointment is as big as the bill. But the ladies are very friendly and helpful. We have a recommendation from them to have dinner at the nearby Kravanh Khmer Restaurant at #122 Sothearos St. The girls at the spa get us a tuk tuk in the rain to Kravanh and we enjoy our first Khmer food thoroughly.

Amok is a must. It is just like the otak otak. We also have fried pork ribs and a fish dish. Angkor Beer of course. Just $26 and excellent dishes and friendly staff.

Of Vietnam People and Travelers

In front of the Reunification Palace

Saturday 13 Aug 2011. HCMC.

I see this cobbler every day on the road side just outside Sophia. My sandals need a bit of TLC and he is giving it his 100% attention. Some re-gluing, some conversations later he says "Ba Mui" to me and I happily hand over my VND 30,000 (US$1.5). We share some hand gestures and a smoke.

Lunch is at Pho 24 again, today it's a beef pho for me. Thanh Truc 阮竹 works at the restaurant, 21 years old, and speaks good English. She is delightful and curious about me and always wear a big smile. I am grateful to have some nice conversations on a solo journey.

After lunch I have a pedicure at Nghia Beauty Salon next door to Pho 24. At VND 155,000 (US$7) it is all right. My nails are trimmed and the feet scrubbed and dead skins removed. Good as gold.

For the first time I have iced milk coffee made by a road side vendor and at US$0.5 it is a steal and it's just as good and safe to consume. I chat with an Indian couple from Fiji about their travel and their country. I tell them I live in Australia and the husband says, " oh, we live in Sydney". We are immigrants.

It starts to shower and I take refuge in side walks. I buy a hot "tau foo far" from a road side vendor at US$ 0.5. The vendor scoops the tau foo far into a plastic cup and adds ginger syrup and some palm jelly into it. I eat it with a plastic spoon. It is some fantastic dessert.

I tell myself I am tired and return to Golden Lotus for a 90-minute foot massage and hot stone back rub at US$15. This is the advantage of living in Asia because these human comforts are so affordable.

At 7.30pm I make it to the Rex Hotel which I have a reservation for a table for one at The world-famous Rooftop Garden bar & restaurant. It is famous because of the "Five O'Clock Follies" ---- where international correspondents covered the Vietnam war, U.S officers and GIs had their drinking niche during the 60s. Quite apart from that it is a nice place to have a meal and a drink on a cool night. I make a note that perhaps one day a New Year celebration in this restaurant is something I need to work towards.

Rooftop Garden

Picture taken on Rooftop Garden

Picture taken on Rooftop Garden looking down onto the street below

I order a Lotus Chicken Rice of lotus seeds, lotus, carrots, mushrooms and chicken pieces. It is succulent and moist. At US$ 10 including a drink it is well worth it because of the attentive staff, the atmosphere, the live music, the views from the rooftop.

The Manager I book the table actually did not have my name on the list and she comes over to apologize after her staff alerts her to the small incident. She asks me about my travels and advises that the train from Hanoi to HCMC is not comfortable even for her and the journey takes 18 hours. Hmmm...

HCMC Night scene

Good bye Rooftop Garden, hello Duc Thanh Ice Cream. It is still showery and so I have an ice cream and a hot coffee at this popular shop frequented by the locals. I did not enjoy the ice cream which has a different texture than ones we have in Oz which are creamy.

Tomorrow is a big day of travel - crossing to Cambodia.....

Rooftop Garden at The Rex Hotel

Duc Thanh Ice Cream

New and old

Friday 12 Aug 2011. HCMC.

People milling about in a city park

Vietnamese lady in traditional costume

Brand new day, alone. Nice feeling. Ok ok I digressed.

Walking in this city is do-able and pleasant. I do the sensible bits i.e. bring along with me water, a cab and a light backpack.

I make my way to the area around the Rex Hotel and find a good money changer to do the necessary. I find the HCM Tourist Information Center at 92-96 Nguyen Hue St, Dist. 1 reliable and trustworthy. The office is located near the Air France city office. I also buy the bus ticket to Phnom Penh here at US$12. I am to take the Mekong Express coach at nearby Pham Ngu Lao St Sunday morning. I am happy.

The Tourist Center offers a Saigon Discovery half day tour of city at US$23 which covers Notre Dame, Reunification Palace and Ben Thanh but I know I can do these myself easily

Ben Thanh Market comes into view and I know I have been here before. It is an interesting place for seeing the sights and sounds. There is the ubiquitous hawker foods, and the fresh market. There is the touristy shops selling souvenirs, shoes, North Face backpacks, clothes, coffee beans, lingerie, and other nick knacks. There are lots to see and maybe to buy (bargain hard!) but on this day I am satisfied just to take in the atmosphere.

Ben Thanh

I took this picture of this building just outside the Market because to me it is an interesting building

I keep exploring other parts of the city and end up in Pham Ngu Lao and make a mental picture of the landmarks so I know it for my bus trip to Cambodia. I take a break there and have a coffee break at Highlands Coffee. A little more this time at VND 33,000 for an iced, milk coffee. It's ok because it is like a Starbucks with proper seats and music and air conditioning.

In a Highlands Cafe leather seat watching the people go by outside the window

Lunch is at Pho 24 near Ben Thanh which serves beautiful beef pho and broken rice. I have a Vietnamese Four Seasons which has several types of spring rolls (rice, shrimp) and different types of vegetables, bean shoots, and the iniquitous Vietnamese basil.


It is not heavy and fun to have to make your own spring rolls out of the rice papers provided. At VND 70,000 (US$3.5) it is relatively cheap. And very good. I will come back to this restaurant again.




After lunch I go to visit the HCM Museum. For history buffs it is a good stop to look at some artifacts, war related stuff, the re-unification process, the way of life before the war. I must say I am not keen on these.....

It's night fall and I am heading back to my hotel. After dinner I will explore this other Spa, the Golden Lotus Spa & Massage Club near my hotel. It offers Korea spa of sauna, steam bath, hot and cold jacuzzi pools, foot massage and hot stone back rub. And Lotus tea. Sounds inviting .....

The day ends and it is a mixture of new images and old. The forever flowing traffic of pedestrians, traders and bikes, the food, the lazy paces, the new skyscrapers, the hard working populace. More to come tomorrow.

Night Scene near Rex Hotel

More Night Scene

A Little Bit Caotic

Thursday 11 Aug 2011. Ho Chi Minh City.

The Reunification Hall, Ho Chi Minh City

Prior to our Air Asia plane touching down on Tan Son Nhat airpport I can see that HCMC is really densely populated but organized. There are houses and buildings everywhere my eyes can see. Not many roads though, and vehicles on the roads are slow-going. I would later find out that the Vietnam population is about 87 million.

HCMC is 1 hour in time behind KL and 3 hours behind that of Melbourne. By the time I get through customs and immigration and out of the airport with my luggage it is already 5.30pm. I get on an airport cab in the taxi line outside the arrival hall and head on out to Sophia Hotel in District 1. It is located right in the tourist area and is close by to several major landmarks such as the Rex Hotel, the Caravelle Hotel, The Reunification Center, Notre Dame Cathedral, and the Ben Thanh Market.

Checking into Sophia is painless and I settle in to my room and begin finding my feet in the city. A city I knew well, and a city I want to spend a few days in before going across the border to Cambodia. Find Sophia on Agoda.com and they are located at 36 Thai Van Lung, Ben Nghe, District 1, HCMC. Tel: (08) 38256972.

Dinner is at Pho 2000 just around the corner from Sophia. I try their beef pho which is quite small portion and so I order a few Vietnamese shrimp spring rolls and wash it down with Vietnamese black coffee. The pho is so so compared to what we have in Melbourne which has a large population of Vietnamese. My bill comes to VND (Dong) 114,000 and at 1 US$ to VND 20,000 the meal is all right.

View outside my room window

Comfortable bed

I go around Sophia to stretch my legs and also to find my bearing. Sophia is on Thai Van Lung St and it is at one end of District 1. I pay US$104.55 for 3 nights. Sophia is close to a Shop & Go convenience store and surprise, surprise; a Pizza Hut, a Coffee Bean, and a couple of spas. Nice. I popped into Royal Spa nearby to have a foot massage them make my way to the more touristy part of District 1 to have a look around. On the way back to Sophia I chanced upon this little cafe called Phuc Long for a Vietnamese coffee with condensed milk. Heavens. At VND 23,000 ($1 and a bit) it was great. Find it on 63 Mac Thi Buoi-P, District 1.

So that is it for the 1st day in Vietnam.

I decide to hunker down for the night, satisfied that I have made it to HCMC. Even though I have been to this country on numerous business trips before I am still looking forward to my solo journey here, wanting more, yearning for the independence and personal space ......

Solo Trip

Oh... blissful thought, if not for the world financial crisis, of being able to go to another place on earth on your own. Haha, such is the way we are dealt with in life?

Although it is only HCM city which I have been several times in the past years I still relish the idea of solo travels. I look forward to waking up to the bustle of bikes + goings on in this lively city. And I look forward to my croissant + dripped Viet coffee with condensed milk and ice!

Later on in the week a friend of mine is going to meet me up in Phnom Penh whilst I would bus across the Vietnam border into Cambodia for a rendezvous.

Rendezvous in PP you ask? Sounds a bit off and a bit investigative.

More to come on my sojourn......

Picture shows a group photo of former 1978 classmates who attended a dinner hosted by the family of Ek Kok to remember him on his first anniversary. Dinner was held on 10/8/2011 at a vegetarian restaurant in Damansara.

Happy Birthday Butterfly

I will run to you

Heroes come in many colors

OUR CAR WAS PARKED on Victoria Parade on Saturday and this errant P-Plater reversed his/her car into ours, damaging the car rego plate.

The episode was witnessed by a passer-by and she wrote a note and tuck it on our windscreen. I texted her and thanked her for her willingness to help and her sense of social justice. The world is certainly a better place with people like her!

(I am not so sure if I would take the trouble to do what she did. Heroes come in many colors)